京都に来た (Kyoto Arrival)

After getting off of Mt. Fuji, all I wanted was to take a shower. Luckily, extremely close to the Gotemba JR Train Station, there was an Onsen (public bath). I hoped on a bus, and 10 minutes later I arrived at the front of the Onsen. I removed my shoes, cleaned my disgusting feet off outside of the onsen's entrance, and went in. It was 500¥ for 2 hours, easy. I bought a wash cloth and rented a bath towel. I make this sound simple, but this involved me entering the locker room, removing my clothes, realizing I didn't have a wash cloth or towel, putting my clothes back on, going to the desk and getting the towels, removing my clothes again, before finally entering the bath. 1.5 hours of paradise. There was a nice view of the hillside, and the bath was SO hot. I had to wash myself 3 times outside the bath before the water wasn't grey from volcanic ash anymore (bathers wash themselves clean before entering the communal bath). After 1.5 hours, I had had enough of naked Japanese men. I was ready to go to Kyoto.

I had almost fallen asleep inside the onsen, so now the only thing I wanted was to sleep somewhere comfortable. Luckily, 30 minutes later I was boarding the shinkansen bound for Kyoto. I bought a small sandwich at the station, sat in my reserved seat, and promptly fell asleep.


I arrived at Kikokusou Ryokan, a Japanese style inn. I was greeted at the door and escorted to my room. The above was waiting for me: hot green tea (smelled like Dragon Well, for those who know their tea) and a small sweet treat packaged perfectly. Not moments later the Okami (lady of the house) entered my room, very politely excusing herself for disturbing me, saying that since it was so hot outside, she had prepared cold green tea for me, and also brought a pot of cold water. She excused herself to leave, bowing deeply multiple times, and left me to myself.


The ryokan is beautiful. There is a small bridge that traverses a small stream that leads to the garden. Koi swim in the small pond, and a stone garden lantern overlooks a small bridge (only the staff enter this garden). My room is on the second floor, with a small porch area overlooking its beauty. At all hours of the day, I can hear trickling water


Kyoto is a beautiful city which I believe has an identity crisis. It was once Japan's capital, and is definitely a large metropolitan city. It is famous for being like "old Japan" with many shrines, temples, and beautiful gardens. However, many of the locals obviously desire a more urban city. Vending machines are juxtaposed with old, one-story houses; beautiful irrigation systems are littered with gomi, trash. The city is fighting with itself to preserve some of the older buildings that developers wish to tear down to build more high-rises. It's still beautiful place though.


Before I had my futon prepared for me, one of the staff brought me an English map of the surrounding area with major sights clearly marked. I slept 10 hours straight, but still had trouble standing up in the morning.

The ryokan borders a beautiful garden (see above) that I couldn't get enough of. Ancient style tea-houses, cranes, koi, ravens, impecably designed flora. Despite the mid 90 degree weather, I didn't want to leave.

I then returned to my arrival point, Kyoto-eki (station). The station is ridiculously modern, with 4 story escalators, solar panels, a large department store, countless smaller shops, and taxis everywhere. I ate ramen on the 9th floor, and finished off with delicious matcha ice cream with rice-waffles on top (matcha=sweet green tea, best EVER). I now strike up conversations with anyone that gives me the time of day. They usually just want to know where I came from, and how I learned Japanese, but the conversations are getting longer and more complicated with every day. I'm finally not feeling as lonely...

I ended up at Sanjuusangen-dou, a temple recommended to me by a nice lady that I met at the matcha shop. 1001 kannon statues, the Buddhist bodhisattva for compassion, filled the long hall. Countless Buddhist statues stood in front of them, most of them National Treasures. The shoeless visitors quietly walk the length of the dimly lit hall. The smell of insense fills the air, and monks take offerings of candles, insense, and sake (rice wine) to the statues, most of them to the giant Kannon in the middle of the hall.


I returned to take a bath in the furo, the ryokan's public bath lined with rocks. At 6:30, I was treated to a 5-course Japanese style dinner by the Okami. Of course, I had a large bottle of Asahi beer to go with it.

Now my futon is calling me. The smell of the tatami grass flooring is intoxicating. I think I'll miss that, and the closest attention to aesthetic perfection, the most.

Oyasuminasai! (Goodnight!)