木曜日 (Thursday)

Dear America,

If you're confused as to why I took the above picture, click on these links. Dramatic look Origin of dramatic look

Needless to say, I went to the doubutsuen (zoo) in Ueno Kouen (Ueno Park) today. I watched this prairie dog for 2 minutes hoping that it would turn to look at me dramatically, but it never did. And Japanese people started to stare at me, more than usual, so I moved on.


I've been so anxious to speak to people in Japanese. I was strolling around the park that is literally 2 blocks from my hotel, admiring the fabulous lakes of lilies, koi, and turtles, when a man asked me to take his picture in broken English. My pulse quickened, yes! An excuse to speak Japanese! I took his picture and spoke not a word of English. Surprised by my adeptness in speaking the language, he asked "Are you Japanese?" to which I replied, "iya, ano, america-jin desukedo" (no, well, I'm American). He said he was from Korea, traveling alone. Probably didn't speak a word of Japanese. You would have thought that I might have latched onto this English speaker who also was traveling alone, but no, my ego demanded that I politely say goodbye and leave this non-Japanese speaker behind... go me. Oh well.



My neighbor on the flight told me to keep an eye out for acrobats at Ueno park, and sure enough, I stumbled upon a small but fabulous troupe. Recently I've been constantly humbled by how amazingly skilled the human race can be. I put all the coins I had (200¥~$2) into their collection tray and moved on...


Ancient Bentou! (boxed lunch set)

I went on the to National Tokyo Museum. I couldn't take pictures of much, but it was great to be so close to so much ancient history: scrolls, paintings, Buddhist sculptures, Noh masks, swords and armor that reminded me that Bushido (the way of the sword) is always present, sometimes beneath the surface, in Japanese culture.


Finally, I ended the day at the Kabukiza. I splurged on reserving a 11,500¥ ticket yesterday (~$115!) on the first floor to watch the 3 hours and 45 minute spectacle (plus a 45 minute intermission). The first act was a more traditional style piece with an ancient yet appropriate moral: don't be one of the asshole townspeople by sending a beautiful lady up a mountain naked tied to the back of a cow just because it hasn't rained in a while, or else you'll feel the wrath of a bunch of kami and oni (gods and demons). Again, I was reminded of Bushido with the stylistic fight sequences. In Kabuki style, there was never a second that wasn't a perfect stage picture.

The second act was more engaging thanks to the use of Bunraku (puppetry). A woman attempts and fails to seduce a Buddhist monk, and therefore does not turn him into a puppet-animal like she did with all of the other men that met her. Two things kept me engaged (between my 2 minute naps, customary in Kabuki theatre): the elaborate and ever-constant aesthetically pleasing stage pictures (deceivingly simple), and the prowess of the black-clad ninja-like bunraku operators had, bringing puppets alive on stage.

Now it's late, osokunatchatta, and this post has become longer than I had anticipated. Oyasuminasai! Goodnight!